Orange Rocker 30 Problem.

[6Stringmofo]

V3 and the power tubes aren't lighting up.

The Power LED also isn't lighting it (which gets it's power from a power tube).

[Les Paul Lover]

It looks like a valve heater circuit failure.

I had the same issue on my 2 AD15s a while back. I beleive the R30 uses similar splicers, and they are bound to fail at some point.




In this pic of the inside of my R30, you can see a yellow twisted wire going from the pilot light to 2 black splicers, each servicing the preamp valves or the power valves.

I haven't looked into it in detail, but the as the other valves haven't splicers, it means the trace for the other valves is within the PCB.

You said V1 and V2 are still lighting up?
I believe they get their power separately. The other valves are all getting their heater power from TX4 and TX6.

I'm not sure if you know what to do inside an amp re: safety and not killing yourself, but the fix, assuming TX4 and TX6 get their 3.15v each, is to remove the splicers and hard wire it.

[bclaire]

When you say "splicer" you mean spade connector?

[Jondog]

Check the pair of 6.3 amp fuses, FS3 and FS4.

[6Stringmofo]

It looks like a valve heater circuit failure.

I had the same issue on my 2 AD15s a while back. I beleive the R30 uses similar splicers, and they are bound to fail at some point.




In this pic of the inside of my R30, you can see a yellow twisted wire going from the pilot light to 2 black splicers, each servicing the preamp valves or the power valves.

I haven't looked into it in detail, but the as the other valves haven't splicers, it means the trace for the other valves is within the PCB.

You said V1 and V2 are still lighting up?
I believe they get their power separately. The other valves are all getting their heater power from TX4 and TX6.

I'm not sure if you know what to do inside an amp re: safety and not killing yourself, but the fix, assuming TX4 and TX6 get their 3.15v each, is to remove the splicers and hard wire it.

Thanks for the info. I'll check that out when I can.

I was leaning towards the irons but I've never run into an intermittent TX.

[6Stringmofo]

Check the pair of 6.3 amp fuses, FS3 and FS4.

First thing I did

[Les Paul Lover]

When you say "splicer" you mean spade connector?

No, i mean splicer.

If you look in the centre of V3 and V5 on the pic I posted, you will see tallish black things, with twisted yellow wires going from the light bulb, to the splicer on V3, then the splicers on V5.

The splicer itself has a small blade that cuts the wire open when you insert it in and push it on the splicers recipient 3 shafts (those shafts/forks/male parts whatever you call it are made of of metal and make the connection with the rest of the PCB circuit). Essentially, they mean cheaper assembly costs, but at the expense of reliability in my experience.

I believe Orange has been moving away for these splicers in more recent products. On the plus side, they're a reasonably easy fix - Hardwire them and you'll never have that issue again.

Here I think the heater splicers on V5 is connected to the transformer supplies on TX4 and TX6, passes on the valve heater power supply to V4 via PCB traces, and to V3 and the bulb via the splicers.

My guess is that the connection fails on the splicer on V5 - otherwise both EL34 would warm up.

It could be something totally different of course.

[Sooner]

My guess is that the connection fails on the splicer on V5 - otherwise both EL34 would warm up.

It could be something totally different of course.

Looks like your diagnosis is spot on to me.

[6Stringmofo]

My guess is that the connection fails on the splicer on V5 - otherwise both EL34 would warm up.

It could be something totally different of course.

Looks like your diagnosis is spot on to me.

I'll let you all know how it works out. Getting back into it tomorrow in the evening.

[Les Paul Lover]

My guess is that the connection fails on the splicer on V5 - otherwise both EL34 would warm up.

It could be something totally different of course.

Looks like your diagnosis is spot on to me.

I'll let you all know how it works out. Getting back into it tomorrow in the evening.

Did you manage to get it sorted???

[6Stringmofo]

I put it on the back burner for the week.

I can confirm the twisted pair buzzed out fine, and the EL34s are getting their 400+ volts. Been having a hard time finding a schematic :\

[jontheid]

It's not about the EL34s getting their 400 volts(plate voltage), it is about them (and the other non-glowing preamp tubes) getting their 6.3V heater supply.

The Rocker 30 is a weird setup. It uses a mains transformer originally designed to supply a valve rectifier (5V heater) as well as preamp/power tubes (6.3V heaters).

V1 & V2 (preamp valves) run their heaters from the 5V supply.

All the other valves run off the 6.3V heater supply, as does the power lamp. This supply has 2 fuses, FS3 and FS4, both T6.3A.

I think that checking these fuses is a good place to start. Check them with a meter, as fuses can look good but be blown.

You can see where FS3 and FS4 are in the pic below - above and to the left of the V5 socket.

Cheers,
Jon

[jontheid]

Doh ! You have already done this!
If these test good, then check the voltage to ground (using AC setting on meter) on either side of the fs3 and fs4 fuseholders.

I have a Rocker 30 schematic, fuzzy but useable, can send it to you if you like.

Cheers,
Jon

[jontheid]

Or the other thing to do is to measure the AC voltage at the spade connectors where the thick yellow wires attach - TX4 & TX6.
If there is no voltage here with the amp switched on then the 6.3V tap is toast and it is new power transformer time.

[6Stringmofo]

It's not about the EL34s getting their 400 volts(plate voltage), it is about them (and the other non-glowing preamp tubes) getting their 6.3V heater supply.

The Rocker 30 is a weird setup. It uses a mains transformer originally designed to supply a valve rectifier (5V heater) as well as preamp/power tubes (6.3V heaters).

V1 & V2 (preamp valves) run their heaters from the 5V supply.

All the other valves run off the 6.3V heater supply, as does the power lamp. This supply has 2 fuses, FS3 and FS4, both T6.3A.

I think that checking these fuses is a good place to start. Check them with a meter, as fuses can look good but be blown.

You can see where FS3 and FS4 are in the pic below - above and to the left of the V5 socket.

Cheers,
Jon

To all your post.

Thanks. I'm used to fixing Marshalls, Orange amps seem vary different in their design.

I'll try all those things and let you know.