
V3 and the power tubes aren't lighting up.
The Power LED also isn't lighting it (which gets it's power from a power tube).
Moderator: bclaire
Thanks for the info. I'll check that out when I can.Les Paul Lover wrote: ↑Wed Jun 27, 2018 9:38 amIt looks like a valve heater circuit failure.
I had the same issue on my 2 AD15s a while back. I beleive the R30 uses similar splicers, and they are bound to fail at some point.
In this pic of the inside of my R30, you can see a yellow twisted wire going from the pilot light to 2 black splicers, each servicing the preamp valves or the power valves.
I haven't looked into it in detail, but the as the other valves haven't splicers, it means the trace for the other valves is within the PCB.
You said V1 and V2 are still lighting up?
I believe they get their power separately. The other valves are all getting their heater power from TX4 and TX6.
I'm not sure if you know what to do inside an amp re: safety and not killing yourself, but the fix, assuming TX4 and TX6 get their 3.15v each, is to remove the splicers and hard wire it.
First thing I did
No, i mean splicer.
Looks like your diagnosis is spot on to me.Les Paul Lover wrote: ↑Wed Jun 27, 2018 8:09 pm
My guess is that the connection fails on the splicer on V5 - otherwise both EL34 would warm up.
It could be something totally different of course.
I'll let you all know how it works out. Getting back into it tomorrow in the evening.Sooner wrote: ↑Wed Jun 27, 2018 8:54 pmLooks like your diagnosis is spot on to me.Les Paul Lover wrote: ↑Wed Jun 27, 2018 8:09 pm
My guess is that the connection fails on the splicer on V5 - otherwise both EL34 would warm up.
It could be something totally different of course.
Did you manage to get it sorted???6Stringmofo wrote: ↑Wed Jun 27, 2018 11:44 pmI'll let you all know how it works out. Getting back into it tomorrow in the evening.Sooner wrote: ↑Wed Jun 27, 2018 8:54 pmLooks like your diagnosis is spot on to me.Les Paul Lover wrote: ↑Wed Jun 27, 2018 8:09 pm
My guess is that the connection fails on the splicer on V5 - otherwise both EL34 would warm up.
It could be something totally different of course.
To all your post.jontheid wrote: ↑Thu Jul 12, 2018 6:49 pmIt's not about the EL34s getting their 400 volts(plate voltage), it is about them (and the other non-glowing preamp tubes) getting their 6.3V heater supply.
The Rocker 30 is a weird setup. It uses a mains transformer originally designed to supply a valve rectifier (5V heater) as well as preamp/power tubes (6.3V heaters).
V1 & V2 (preamp valves) run their heaters from the 5V supply.
All the other valves run off the 6.3V heater supply, as does the power lamp. This supply has 2 fuses, FS3 and FS4, both T6.3A.
I think that checking these fuses is a good place to start. Check them with a meter, as fuses can look good but be blown.
You can see where FS3 and FS4 are in the pic below - above and to the left of the V5 socket.
Cheers,
Jon
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