OR15 to #4 Conversion

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Squirrels
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OR15 to #4 Conversion

Post by Squirrels » Wed Jul 16, 2014 4:24 am

With the help of a friend, I was able to convert my OR15 to Jim Root Terror specs. By swapping out the treble caps, slope resistor and the coupling cap (C7, I think it's the coupling cap, still fairly new on the technical terms) on the second gain stage and the results are fantastic. I'm not sure if I can post the values of the component swaps or not, so for now I won't.

Why I did this... While the OR15 is a fantastic amp, after a few months and the honeymoon period was over it seemed to be lacking the characteristics I was looking for. I am primarily a metal player and while the OR15 does a decent job, it's not the greatest. Blues and classic rock is what this was made for so I felt it was time to try to trade for a #4. I could have sold it and purchased a #4, but I didn't want to take a loss on it.

After a few weeks of trying to trade the OR, a friend of mine who is more knowledgable about amps and has some connections that I don't was able to give me the information I needed to convert it to #4 specs. The information that was mentioned in another thread was accurate, it was still missing something. I did see and compare the schematics for both amps confirming the accuracy of the component swaps but I do not have a copy of the #4 nor can I get it. I also have NOT compared it to a #4 but I did compare it to another stock OR15 and my amp has much more bottom end and treble making it very aggressive and more suited to what I play normally (Mastodon, Down, Deftones, Alice in Chains). Like the stock OR15, it still does everything really well, it just needs to be EQ'd a bit differently.

I also experimented with making the changes switchable using a 3PDT switch. Since the treble caps are in series, I couldn't really get it to work right since I couldn't get all four components on the switch. Honestly I don't think I would use the stock OR15 setting though, the modified amp sounds much better to me. I play this through an Orange PPC112 with a V30 and an L-Pad attenuator to knock the volume down a little bit for more volume control in my condo. My two guitars are a PRS Singlecut Trem loaded with Lace Hammer Claws and an old Ibanez AX120 that I refinished and loaded up with a DiMarzio X2N in the bridge and a Tone Zone in the neck... Yes in the neck. It has a .022uF cap in series with it to take out some of the mud and it compliments and balances with the X2N nicely. As a finishing touch, I bought a Fantastic Four logo sticker (looks close enough to the numbers on the Slipknot coveralls) and a piece of white vinyl to cover the OR15 text on the amp.

I want to thank jontheid and Man1ak for their help in the other thread for teaching me a few things and pointing me in the right direction. Also to my other friend for the valuable info. Anyway, here is a picture of the modified faceplate and a gut shot. I added everything from the top but I'll most likely remove the board and solder everything in properly. The capacitor next to the modded section melted a bit when one of my dogs decided they wanted to play while I had a soldering iron in my hand. Oops.

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Hubaxe
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Re: OR15 to #4 Conversion

Post by Hubaxe » Wed Jul 16, 2014 9:22 am

nice mod. So far this match your need, it's fine :D
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a.hun
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Re: OR15 to #4 Conversion

Post by a.hun » Wed Jul 16, 2014 2:16 pm

Well done. Good you ended up with the amp you really wanted and that it is also a bit unique.

Well cool that! 8)


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Jondog
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Re: OR15 to #4 Conversion

Post by Jondog » Wed Jul 16, 2014 2:30 pm

Cool stuff! Did you hit C14 with the soldering iron? Beware it could eventually fail.
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Squirrels
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Re: OR15 to #4 Conversion

Post by Squirrels » Wed Jul 16, 2014 5:19 pm

Thanks for the comments. When my neighbors leave and I can turn it up some I'll record a demo.
Jondog wrote:Cool stuff! Did you hit C14 with the soldering iron? Beware it could eventually fail.
Yeah, one of my dogs decided he wanted to play while I was soldering and I burned it a bit. It's not nearly as bad as it looks in the picture but I'll replace it when I get a chance.

Jondog
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Re: OR15 to #4 Conversion

Post by Jondog » Wed Jul 16, 2014 8:50 pm

Yeah, I hit one once and it eventually failed on me.
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Man1ak
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Re: OR15 to #4 Conversion

Post by Man1ak » Fri Jul 18, 2014 4:12 pm

Congratulations man! It's good to be happy with your amp :)

Why would there be a problem to post the values of the new caps?
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Squirrels
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Re: OR15 to #4 Conversion

Post by Squirrels » Sun Jul 20, 2014 3:45 am

Man1ak wrote:Congratulations man! It's good to be happy with your amp :)

Why would there be a problem to post the values of the new caps?
Not sure if it violates the rules or anything. But if it does it will remove it. C7 was changed to 4n7 680v, C11 and C12 are now 1n 1kW and lastly R17 is now 39k. I played a stock OR15 at Guitar Center this weekend and there is a huge difference between the two. Even for a cleaner tone, I prefer my modded amp. Oh yeah, both amps love the EHX Soul Food, that's one hell of an OD pedal.

Man1ak
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Re: OR15 to #4 Conversion

Post by Man1ak » Sun Jul 20, 2014 5:50 pm

Thanks man, that's great! I fancy installing the #4 tonestack in my OR and make it switchable. I'll talk to my tech buddy to see if it's feasible. These small amps are soooo crowded...
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Squirrels
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Re: OR15 to #4 Conversion

Post by Squirrels » Mon Jul 21, 2014 2:14 am

Man1ak wrote:Thanks man, that's great! I fancy installing the #4 tonestack in my OR and make it switchable. I'll talk to my tech buddy to see if it's feasible. These small amps are soooo crowded...
Let me know how it works if it can be done. It would be pretty sweet to have essentially both amps.

Squirrels
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Re: OR15 to #4 Conversion

Post by Squirrels » Tue Jul 22, 2014 3:58 pm

What I'm thinking of for a switchable tone stack would be to start with the stock OR15 components and using a 4PDT switch, you would need to wire all the components in parallel with what is already there.

-500pf caps parallel to the stock 470pf caps for the treble. This would give you 970pf on each cap and 485pf in series. #4 is 500pf.
-220k resistor in parallel with the stock 47k. This will give you 38.7k. #4 is 39k.
-2n2 cap in parallel with the stock 2n2, giving you 4n4. #4 is 4n7.

It would get close to the stock #4 values, probably close enough to where it's negligible. I'd try it out myself, but all I have on hand at the moment is a 3PDT and a few pedal projects I'm going to be working on. Would removing one of the treble caps and replacing it with a jumper work? That way only three components would need to be switched out but the remaining treble cap would need to be replaced with a 250pf cap and have another one added in parallel on the switch.

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