affordable speakers?

[iblastoff]

depending on where you live, it shouldn't be too hard to find affordable, used celestion v30s via the usual used sites

[Hubaxe]

...
In general I find Eminence tend to have the same flavor in their copies of the Celestion speaker models, but with more power handling, less speaker breakup and also way less fizz. They sound great to me in a lot of applications, tight sound, very articulate, somewhat dark and fat sounding and not fizzy at all (the ones I've tried anyways).
...

+1
The Governor is very good, but in 1X12 configuration the Wizard gave better results (I mean very very good result).
I won't go back to Celestion anymore. Eminence are US made, cheap, and I like them a lot.
I've heard a lot of good things about WGS, I'll give them a try if I need a new cab.

[Jimmy]

Ok. After all the suggestions i checked my local CL and found 2 WGS reaper 50 watt for $80. I bought them. Now on to building the cabinet. I'm trying to do some research on cabinet design. One question I'm having is dampening. It sounds like a good thing to do but i don't ever remember seeing dampening in other cabs. Any tips on design? I've got some 3/4" plywood i think I'll use.

Thanks for any more help

Jim

[Randy Bass]

Finger-joining is worthwhile if you have the means (or know someone at a local cabinet shop). Since you have the luxury of considering different dimensions and configurations for your 2x12 cab, I would spend some time looking at cab designs with vertical or diagonal speaker positioning. They will give you much better sound dispersion than the traditional horizontal configuration. Slot porting is also a good idea as an alternative to a semi-open back. Actually, Jondog (Forum user) has built what I would consider the best 2x12 design possible. Hopefully he will chime-in with some cab-building expertise.

[Jimmy]

Thanks Randy. Yes I'm not having much luck finding info on cabinet design. I'll keep looking.

Jim

[Jondog]

This cab sounds great, best one I've owned. I have Reapers in it. I built this one very solid using finger joints and there really isn't much need for corner bracing for strength when they're done right. The only bracing I have is around the outside for not just for strength but an area to attach the baffle/grill cloth and back. Also the look. The entire construction with exception of the back panel, the baffle (which is a floating baffle) and hardware has no nails or screws holding it together and it's super solid. The outside braces are glued and dowel pinned in place.
Table saw and a dado blade with a jig as well as some practice tests to get your joints to fit properly is all you need to do it accurately. Also, very important to use QUALITY voidless plywood with lots of plys for strength (Baltic birch is most common). If you get regular construction plywood you are bound to have a bad sounding cab full of vibrations.



This pick is before it was completelt finished just checking fit. Those angled baffles inside are important for the ported design to deflect sound out the port, otherwise it could sound muffly bass'y. It's designed based on the Port City cabs. I had to be creative a bit as I've never seen one in person and had a bit of guess work. The baffles fit tight against the back and I added strips of cloth to the edges to couple it to the back without vibrations. Turned out great though. Exactly what I wanted. I prefer open back cabs over closed back for a fuller sound. This cab Sounds full with great tight bass response like a closed back. Best of both worlds! Any questions don't be afraid to ask. Was helping another guy out here with a Bass Terror sleeve design I did and saw it pop up on Orange's facebook page yesterday.

[Jondog]

Can't stress enough the cab material quality though. Don't use MDF despite what you read on some forums. It's sonically dead which is a good thing, but thats better for car audio systems, not great for durability. Sturdy cab, and play with the baffle thickness, material, fixed or floating, open/closed back, ported for response.

[Jimmy]

Awesome looking cab! I'm a little confused about what you mean by angled baffle and being ported. I appreciate your help.

Jim

[Randy Bass]

Awesome looking cab! I'm a little confused about what you mean by angled baffle and being ported. I appreciate your help.

Jim

The last pic shows the angled baffles (small angled wood panels painted black) going across at the top and bottom inside the cab at the back. The slot port is the opening across the bottom front of the cab. The angled baffles allow the sound coming from the backside of the speaker cones inside the cab (especially low frequencies) to bounce back towards the front of the cab and out of the slot port at the bottom. It is very effective at increasing bass response and making the cab sound fuller out front. That's why so many bass cabs are built that way.

[Jimmy]

That makes sense. Thank you. I think I'm going to do a vertical slant cab. I'm just trying to think of how to get the grill cloth around 2 separate baffles. Other than that i think i have it planned out now.

Jim

[Randy Bass]

That makes sense. Thank you. I think I'm going to do a vertical slant cab. I'm just trying to think of how to get the grill cloth around 2 separate baffles. Other than that i think i have it planned out now.

Jim

Most companies attach the slant baffles together before installing the grill cloth in one piece. You could also have a one-piece straight baffle that is mounted at an angle inside the cab to make the build easier. That allows the box to be perfectly rectangular on the outside while still pointing the speakers slightly upward.