OR15 in black tolex......Anybody sell these?

[JimmyOhio75]

I would give my left arm (and leg) for an OR15 in black. Did Orange make any of these? Where can I get one?

[bclaire]

I'd swear I've seen one in pictures... but now I'm questioning my memory.

[OrangePaul]

Yes it's called the Jim Root terror

[0000]

For about $12 bucks of black tolex and a bottle of contact cement, you could do it yourself super easy. I recently got bored and re-tolexed two amps. It was surprisingly easy, and the amps had tolex'ed fronts and back panels also, where an Orange is just the simple outside shell. You can even get the matching basket weave cloth that orange uses. It took me about 1-2 hours per amp.

Give it a try and have the first! Heck, you could even do it in white to match your Rocker.

[0000]

http://www.northeastguitar.co.uk/orange ... black.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

A simple google search for OR15 black turned up a few seller... all in the UK, nothing in the USA.

[ironlung40]

For about $12 bucks of black tolex and a bottle of contact cement, you could do it yourself super easy. I recently got bored and re-tolexed two amps. It was surprisingly easy, and the amps had tolex'ed fronts and back panels also, where an Orange is just the simple outside shell. You can even get the matching basket weave cloth that orange uses. It took me about 1-2 hours per amp.

Give it a try and have the first! Heck, you could even do it in white to match your Rocker.

How do you cut the tolex straight and at the correct length for the seam on the bottom of the box?

[a.hun]

How do you cut the tolex straight and at the correct length for the seam on the bottom of the box?

No need. Just get an Orange coloured flightcase and spray 'BLACK' on the top...


Andy.

[Bensnake]

I would give my left arm (and leg) for an OR15 in black. Did Orange make any of these? Where can I get one?

Come to Sweden! I bought mine here. It's a fine country. The girls/women look better than Katy Perry...

[tarfungo]

How do you cut the tolex straight and at the correct length for the seam on the bottom of the box?

In my experience, a lot of amp / cabinet manufacturers use hot animal glue to tolex cabinets. This glue has a fairly long 'tack' time which allows for the manipulation of the tolex for maybe 10-20 minutes before being 'stuck'. After that, a very sharp knife (box cutter or single edged razor) and experience is required / necessary.

For 'home' do-it-your-selfers, I've used 3M 77. It's a workable contact adhesive.

Cut your tolex about 6" wider than the depth of your cab, and long enough to completely encircle the cabinet in one piece with 6 inches or so over of lapping material.

Evenly spray the adhesive on the back side of your cut tolex and let it set up for a minute or two. It will be slightly tacky then. With the help of an assistant, have them hold one end of the tolex tight while you start the wrapping process on one side of the bottom of the cab. Roll the cab onto the tolex (or vice versa) as required to wrap the entire perimeter cab being careful to not trap any air bubbles under the tolex as you go. Make sure the ends over lap a bit.

Then as quickly as possible move around the sides tucking the front and back edge material around the edges. When you get to a corner, cut as much as needed just to get the corner started to lay flat, move to the next corner.

Then using a straightedge and a VERY sharp knife, place the straight edge over the overlapping ends of the tolex. Use a t-square to ensure your straightedge placement is 90 degrees to the edge of the cab, then cut BOTH layers of the tolex at the same time using a very firm and deliberate SINGLE cut through BOTH layers of tolex and then around the edges. Once the cut has been made, gently peel up the seam and remove the underlying piece of unwanted tolex. Then re-seat the two pieces. The 'butt' will be virtually invisible if this is done correctly.

Then simply return to the corners and clean up as necessary. Since most amps have corner protectors, having a 'perfect' corner isn't always necessary.

Clean up of errant adhesive can be made using a very light spray of WD-40 on a rag. Be careful to NOT get WD-40 into any of the seams as this will release the adhesive.

[Jondog]

I use the 3M spray as well. Works great, haven't had any issues. I actually spray it on the cabinet evenly and wait for it to tack up. Just find it easier that way. I've also heard the the adhesive used for gluing down laminate counter tops is virtually the same as "tolex" glue that sells for 4 times the price.

[ironlung40]

How do you cut the tolex straight and at the correct length for the seam on the bottom of the box?

In my experience, a lot of amp / cabinet manufacturers use hot animal glue to tolex cabinets. This glue has a fairly long 'tack' time which allows for the manipulation of the tolex for maybe 10-20 minutes before being 'stuck'. After that, a very sharp knife (box cutter or single edged razor) and experience is required / necessary.

For 'home' do-it-your-selfers, I've used 3M 77. It's a workable contact adhesive.

Cut your tolex about 6" wider than the depth of your cab, and long enough to completely encircle the cabinet in one piece with 6 inches or so over of lapping material.

Evenly spray the adhesive on the back side of your cut tolex and let it set up for a minute or two. It will be slightly tacky then. With the help of an assistant, have them hold one end of the tolex tight while you start the wrapping process on one side of the bottom of the cab. Roll the cab onto the tolex (or vice versa) as required to wrap the entire perimeter cab being careful to not trap any air bubbles under the tolex as you go. Make sure the ends over lap a bit.

Then as quickly as possible move around the sides tucking the front and back edge material around the edges. When you get to a corner, cut as much as needed just to get the corner started to lay flat, move to the next corner.

Then using a straightedge and a VERY sharp knife, place the straight edge over the overlapping ends of the tolex. Use a t-square to ensure your straightedge placement is 90 degrees to the edge of the cab, then cut BOTH layers of the tolex at the same time using a very firm and deliberate SINGLE cut through BOTH layers of tolex and then around the edges. Once the cut has been made, gently peel up the seam and remove the underlying piece of unwanted tolex. Then re-seat the two pieces. The 'butt' will be virtually invisible if this is done correctly.

Then simply return to the corners and clean up as necessary. Since most amps have corner protectors, having a 'perfect' corner isn't always necessary.

Clean up of errant adhesive can be made using a very light spray of WD-40 on a rag. Be careful to NOT get WD-40 into any of the seams as this will release the adhesive.

Great info...thanks for being so detailed. I think I can do that.

[davebolden44]

I would give my left arm (and leg) for an OR15 in black. Did Orange make any of these? Where can I get one?

how would you play it without an arm

[tinman1]

I've got an orange OR15H and a black PPC112 cab. I thought I'd prefer a black head (they weren't available when I got the amp last year) but looking at some of the photo's I think, surprisingly, that I prefer the orange version. Both cool, but theres something a bit more vintage/ 70's about the head in orange.