AD15 went dead today...
Moderator: bclaire
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Well, I just got back from a long weekend at the in-laws and was hoping to start stompin' some blues in my basement, but when I flipped the switch the heart-warming orange glow did not fill the room. Everything was plugged in properly, tubes all snug, but no nothing. The bulb in the orange indicator light is fine. I l took a peak under her skirt and saw only the rectifier was lit. I took out all the tubes for inspection and they show no burns, breaks, or rattlings. I'm perplexed and a little sad. Any help would be greatly appreciated, even a tech guy reccommendation. I live in Walla Walla, WA (3 hrs from Portland or Spokane, about 5 hrs from Seattle). Thanks guys.
~Reggie
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by reggieisadork</i>
<br />I took a peak under her skirt and saw only the rectifier was lit.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Do you mean the other tubes have no orange glow at all, even on standby? there may be a blown internal (under the chassis) fuse protecting the 6.3 volt DC filament heater circuit.
Turn out the lights and have a peek back there.
<br />I took a peak under her skirt and saw only the rectifier was lit.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Do you mean the other tubes have no orange glow at all, even on standby? there may be a blown internal (under the chassis) fuse protecting the 6.3 volt DC filament heater circuit.
Turn out the lights and have a peek back there.
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- Prince of Orange
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Check the fuses first, then if they are all OK, try it with valves - including a rectifier - that you know work.
Joe
G(sus) saves
Orange AD15, Matamp 1224, Fender 'JD' Tele, G&L ASAT, Duesenberg Starplayer TV, Eggle Kanuga, Avalon D25, Warwick FNA Jazzman, Eden Nemesis / Bergantino EX112S, Eastman MD305 & other stuff...
G(sus) saves
Orange AD15, Matamp 1224, Fender 'JD' Tele, G&L ASAT, Duesenberg Starplayer TV, Eggle Kanuga, Avalon D25, Warwick FNA Jazzman, Eden Nemesis / Bergantino EX112S, Eastman MD305 & other stuff...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by mpisarcik</i>
<br />yeah- sounds like a fuse to me- i doubt that all but the rectifier tube went out.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Most amps with rectifier tubes have a 5VDC secondary tap from the power tranny heating the rectifier tube only, and a separate 6.3VDC tap heating the other tube filaments (power tubes and preamp tubes). And a high voltage tap (HT) going to the standby switch and on to the rest of the circuit.
<br />yeah- sounds like a fuse to me- i doubt that all but the rectifier tube went out.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Most amps with rectifier tubes have a 5VDC secondary tap from the power tranny heating the rectifier tube only, and a separate 6.3VDC tap heating the other tube filaments (power tubes and preamp tubes). And a high voltage tap (HT) going to the standby switch and on to the rest of the circuit.
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- Orange Master
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by reggieisadork</i>
<br /> I took a peak under her skirt and saw only the rectifier was lit.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">If you're sure about this, that amp has wiring issues. The 6.3V heater line for the pre-tubes and power tubes is iterrupted somewhere.
It may be something you can find and fix on your own, as Orange likes to use spade connectors in their amps, and I wouldn't be surprised if one got knocked loose somewhere.
Check the other tubes for heater glow again...and if you don't see anything, either get it to a tech or snap a high res pic of the internals from overhead and post it here.
-Nick
<br /> I took a peak under her skirt and saw only the rectifier was lit.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">If you're sure about this, that amp has wiring issues. The 6.3V heater line for the pre-tubes and power tubes is iterrupted somewhere.
It may be something you can find and fix on your own, as Orange likes to use spade connectors in their amps, and I wouldn't be surprised if one got knocked loose somewhere.
Check the other tubes for heater glow again...and if you don't see anything, either get it to a tech or snap a high res pic of the internals from overhead and post it here.
-Nick
'71 GRO100 || '96 OR-80 || AD30 || '64 AC-50 || AC-30TBX || Hiwatt DR504 || HI-TONE HT30
LP Standard || LP Studio || LP Custom Lite || Ric 620 || Ric 360 || MIA Tele || SG 61 RI
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Well, I took a look inside and the little black thing that reads 100u 6 3 V(RE) was dangling in there. It looked like it was just yanked out. I have no idea how this happened. I do have some eccentric friends, but I'm assuming I need a new one of those, then? It's located right below the el84 socket closest to the pre-amp tubes. I'm assuming this is the heater linefor the pre and power tubes some of you mentioned. Should I just take this to a tech or is there an easy way to pop another one of these on? Thanks again for all the help, everyone.
~Reggie
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None taken. I've done a lot of traveling with this little amp and it probably just needed a little help to break loose and my basement I did a little searching for a capacitor with the cryptic info on it. It says "100uF 6 3 V(RE)" and "-40+85 degree" and "(M)1485." I found a Nichicon UVR Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor 85 Degree 63V 100uF 10X12.5 at Mouser.com. It's the closest thing I found to it, although I think it's a 7mm capacitor which is not specified on this unit. I'll get a picture of the PCB and the capacitor up here shortly. Thanks.
~Reggie
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Now you will find out the difficulties in repairing a PCB amp. What you have to do, if you decide you want to tackle this project, is to lift that PCB where the cap came from away from the chassis, so you can resolder it from underneath. That means all the slider tabs have to come off, mounting screws come off, jack nuts and any pot nuts on the outside of the chassis holding the PCB on, tube sockets...all that stuff has to be disconnected so you can get to the underside. A MAJOR pain. Either that or solder right to those leads sticking up off the PCB. That should probably work out OK. Get a DMM to check the voltages stored in the other caps so you don't electrocute yourself. And some de-soldering braid to clean off the old solder.
The replacement cap you want is indeed radial....both leads off of one end. Make sure the positive lead ends up in the correct hole before you solder.
Why did that cap disintegrate? Is it burned/exploded?
The replacement cap you want is indeed radial....both leads off of one end. Make sure the positive lead ends up in the correct hole before you solder.
Why did that cap disintegrate? Is it burned/exploded?
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