Orange Amps Forum

Posted: **Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:34 pm**

how do you do this setup exactly? just pull one of the 2 fuses and play it as it was? i am running a RV50 head into an orange 2x12.

thanks

Posted: **Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:53 pm**

You pull the fuse by pressing it in and then turning it counter clockwise.
Now the amp will run on two tubes i.e. half power, and you will have to switch to 8 ohm output when using a 16 ohm cabinet. This is very important, otherwise you will mismatch the impedance.

Note that you should not run your amp in half power mode using two cabinets or an 8 ohm cabinet.

Also if you will run your amp in half power alot, be sure to switch witch fuse to pull to wear the tubes even.

Posted: **Wed Feb 28, 2007 11:09 pm**

I think you are referring to pulling two power tubes to run a at a lower volume. A rockverb 50 only has two power tubes so you can not do this.

Posted: **Wed Feb 28, 2007 11:12 pm**

An RV 50 has 4 6V6 Power Tubes

Posted: **Wed Feb 28, 2007 11:31 pm**

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Mondayeyes
 An RV 50 has 4 6V6 Power Tubes
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Not only that, I think OP should also know which tubes to pull. Anyone?

Posted: **Wed Feb 28, 2007 11:48 pm**

When pulling two of the poewr tubes,pull either the two outer most tubes (1st and 4th) or the two inner most tubes (2nd and 3rd). DO NOT just pull any two tubes, they must be the ones mentioned in order for the RV to work in its "push/pull" fashion.

Posted: **Thu Mar 01, 2007 12:04 am**

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Mondayeyes
 An RV 50 has 4 6V6 Power Tubes
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Hmm from the orange website:
"With the same preamp stages as it's 100 watt bigger brother, the Rockerverb 50 cuts down the power amp stage to 50 watts. How is this a good thing? Well, Orange amplifiers sound their best when you start to crank them. 50 watts is perfect for club gigs, allowing you to really drive the two 6V6 tubes in the power amp."

Maybe it's wrong but I could have swore 4 6v6s would be 100 watts

Posted: **Thu Mar 01, 2007 12:08 am**

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by twisted99
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Mondayeyes
 An RV 50 has 4 6V6 Power Tubes
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Hmm from the orange website:
"With the same preamp stages as it's 100 watt bigger brother, the Rockerverb 50 cuts down the power amp stage to 50 watts. How is this a good thing? Well, Orange amplifiers sound their best when you start to crank them. 50 watts is perfect for club gigs, allowing you to really drive the two 6V6 tubes in the power amp."

Maybe it's wrong but I could have swore 4 6v6s would be 100 watts
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Hmm the specs do say 4 6vs though. So i was wrong.

Posted: **Thu Mar 01, 2007 1:15 am**

It's 4 6V6's.

Most 6V6 valves are rated at about 14 Watts a piece giving a max of 4x14 ~ 50 Watts give or take a bit (see for example http://www.jj-electronic.sk//pdf/6V6.pdf ).

The valves 1 and 3 are fused together as are 2 and 4 (i.e. exactly as labelled in the valve protection fuses on the rear of the chassis)- so if you whip out say the 1+3 fuse you disable one push pull pair (valves one and three).
The valve protection fuses are in the cathode circuit - so pulling a fuse disconnects the cathodes of a valve pair from ground and leaves the HT on the anodes and screens and the bias stays on the grid - so I would pull the valves out. However, I've not yet found the need to pull valves.

You also need, as David (Orphin) advised above, to plug a 16 ohm cab into an 8ohm speaker jack since you need to double the impedance seen by the remaining pair of valves to get the right loadline.

The power valve numbers are as labelled on my RV50 head..... viz

looking in the back of the amp they are 1 2 3 4 from left to right

Posted: **Thu Mar 01, 2007 1:40 am**

If you pull the fuse, why do you have to pull the tubes? Or do ya?

Posted: **Thu Mar 01, 2007 8:47 am**

jamison: I think this should be the answer to your question.
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by bgarrett_uk
 
The valve protection fuses are in the cathode circuit - so pulling a fuse disconnects the cathodes of a valve pair from ground and leaves the HT on the anodes and screens and the bias stays on the grid - so I would pull the valves out.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

So YES, pull them out.
Now, reading the manual for the RV-50/100, page 3, "Should an output valve fail, these fuses will shut down one pair of valves, allowing continued use of the amplifier at reduced power. The external LED indicators help identify the failed valve."
In that case, and if you need to keep on playing (gig situation) I understand you don't have to remove the valve(s) (you'll have to remove them eventually, anyway), so please, Brian, David and everyone else: is that right?

Posted: **Thu Mar 01, 2007 10:52 am**

I can't be 100% sure of anything because I didn't build the amp, but Damon Waller told me over the phone about this procedure and he didn't say anything about pulling the actual tubes.

Space-boy, I agree with you. If a tube dies on you, your next step is retubing anyway.

Posted: **Tue Oct 02, 2007 6:32 am**

i was just browsing thru RV50 topics and ran into this one.

if i do this, does it mean that my RV50 will run as a 25w (half of 50) head?

kind of like how Tiny Terror can run on both 15w/7w mode?

does it mean that i'll be able to crank it all the way and get the sweet power tube drive? (i only have the volume up to 12:00 most of the time)

OR, does it mean that there's just a decrease in volume, and thinning of sound?

this idea is just so new to me, i'm kinda excited if this is possible.
i've always wanted to crank my RV50 all the way up for gigs and such.

Posted: **Wed Oct 03, 2007 2:15 am**

anyone?

i also have another question-

i used to be using the 4/12 marshall 1960 cab (16 ohms mono), so i used the 16 ohm speaker-out jack on my RV50.

now i have a 2/12 marshall 1936 cab (8 ohms mono), so i guess i'm supposed to use the 8 ohm speaker-out jack . (am i right, guys?)

AND ON TOP OF THIS, if i pull 1 fuse out from my RV50, which speaker-out jack am i supposed to use???

Posted: **Wed Oct 03, 2007 3:09 am**

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by space-boy
 jamison: I think this should be the answer to your question.
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by bgarrett_uk
 
The valve protection fuses are in the cathode circuit - so pulling a fuse disconnects the cathodes of a valve pair from ground and leaves the HT on the anodes and screens and the bias stays on the grid - so I would pull the valves out.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

So YES, pull them out.
Now, reading the manual for the RV-50/100, page 3, "Should an output valve fail, these fuses will shut down one pair of valves, allowing continued use of the amplifier at reduced power. The external LED indicators help identify the failed valve."
In that case, and if you need to keep on playing (gig situation) I understand you don't have to remove the valve(s) (you'll have to remove them eventually, anyway), so please, Brian, David and everyone else: is that right?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Manual? You have a manual for the RV50? Where can I get one?

Orange Amps Forum

how to do the "pull a fuse" from RV50H