So I'm looking to overhaul my Les Paul and I'm looking for opinions on HB sized P90s. I recently borrowed a Tele with P90's from a friend and the output was good, rolling back cleaned up nicely. looking on ebay, i can go from £38 for a set from vansons ? through to gibson p94's at around £150 for th...

what ant said...

where are you running the boost? if it's infront and you've got the gain high, it'll not seem to do much...

if you've got enough headroom left in the power section... putting the boost in the loop will do the job...

if that doesn't work... you need a more powerful amp!

get a micro terror...

there's no easy way to put a valve power amp through headphones...

the micro terror is what i'd do..

the ad30 has 2 preamps and a power amp... is it both channels?... if so.. it suggests power amp... i assume both cabs are 16 ohms, plugged into the 8 ohm outs or daisy chained? it's not the lead from guitar to amp? when testing like this, i remove as many variables as possible... guitar - head - cab...

yeah, i agree, great guitar for the money...

i figured while i was in there and i'd noticed it was painted, i may as well connect it to ground!

just so you know... the neck's pu's routed for a HB on mine too...

firstly, well done for choosing an excellent guitar... so over the last few days, i've been in the process of modding my strat; shielding the cavity is one of the things i've done to try and quieten it down... whilst waiting for the new parts to arrive 1 ply black pick guard, push pull pots, new swi...

has anyone ever used copper tape to shield the cavity on a guitar?

any tips/tricks/advice?

how important is it to make sure there's no gaps?

I've got a pine Tele... :wink: http://www.fender.com/squier/series/classic-vibe/classic-vibe-telecaster-50s-maple-fingerboard-vintage-blonde/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Andy. I have that guitar too! I love it, even the pickups sound good in it! Maybe the best "bang for the buck"...

i'm really liking the cream/white switch tip.... the rest of it, do what you want!... black rings would make it look classier, as would the black knobs... have you got this kind: https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ0TxcC4memqKYRMQgJxzEv2WWJjxm5gL8CfvBmfzw0Bdc7vOQxHg or this kind: ...

i'm thinking i could have it returned to stock on a switch too... ignore the labels.. but the switch wired like this: http://deaf-eddie.net/tdpri-drawings/phase-4-way.jpg one being the middle one being the neck then i can swap where they go on the pickup selector... i've currently got a series/paral...

so i stumbled across a simple mod eric johnson's apparently done on his strat in the past... simply wireing the neck pickup in place of the middle pickup and the middle in place of the neck. that'd suggest; 5 - middle 4 - middle and neck 3 - neck 2 - neck and bridge 1 - bridge has anyone tried this?...

if it were me, i'd be looking to slim things down... but a large board or two doesn't seem to phase you... personally, i'd keep the maxon... for your analogue needs then getting a midi controller to overcome the issues with your flashback may be the answer... the m9 and dl4 are the same thing in a d...

the rv mk1's have a circuit in them to allow it to keep working if 1 of the power tubes blows... it just uses 2 output tubes instead of 4... i believe when this came up in the past, the suggestion was to remove one of the fuses to a set of tubes; leaving the tubes in place as this was much simpler t...

no problem!...

i was in the same boat as yourself a year or so ago...

my laney blows fuses often...

FF = Fast Fast. Very Quick Acting. (also known as Anti Surge) F = Fast. Quick Acting. (also known as Anti Surge) (Typically open in less than 20 ms @ ten times the rated current) M = Medium. "Normal" or Very Short Delay. (Typically open between 50 and 90 ms @ ten times the rated current) T = Time. ...