I have a George Dennis optical Volume pedal. It is very high quality and, as others have stated, does not affect tone whatever volume you set it at. Built like a brick sh1th0u5e - I've givin it some heavy use, and it just keeps on going, doing what it's supposed to do.
Thoroughly recommended !!

I'd stick with plugging both 8 ohm cabs straight into the head (outputs 7 & 8 in the manual) , and switching the ohm switch to 4 ohms. That's the simplest and safest way to do it.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jamison162</i> Now I'm hooked on the FX loop, I can never go back to the way things were. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote...

DOesn't one have to have and isolation transformer between amps to avoid ground loops ?

I believe the loop is line level (although am not sure about this), although have tried my DD-20 set at both instrument and line level and it worked fine on either.
I use two 5m cables to connect it into the loop. I'm also running a volume cut pedal, to control rhythm/solo volumes.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Ah, I can't live with that!! Why? Chinese tolex? WHy can't Ornage provide the right tolex? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> To be hon...

Here ya go ..... (and yes the orange tolex is a slightly different colour on the two of them !)

I like GHS Boomers. They feel and sound much the same as Ernie Ball's, but seem to stretch less (and therefore have greater tuning stability sooner after fitting) and seem to last rather longer.
Could be my imagination though. As far as I know they could even be identical to EB's !

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by hamfist</i> <br />[quote]<i>Originally posted by sleejay</i> <br />hamfist> Just curious, but did any of them ever come close? Was the Box of Rock the clo...

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by sleejay</i> <br />hamfist> Just curious, but did any of them ever come close? Was the Box of Rock the closest in your opinion? <hr height="1" noshade id="...

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by limfac</i> <br />I noticed the source for issue number 2 - whenever I turn the reverb up it makes this very audible higher pitched reverb noise. Almost li...

Yup, the back panel was on very tightly on my PPC112. Just pulling screws was not enough to get it off. I chose the jack plate removal method to get a good grip in the end.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by boroman</i> <br />THANKS A LOT! there's also another thing - what is if it has like "T250mA H" - what is this "H" and the end? i have this marked on my ad...

A "T" denotes a time delay fuse. These are what are known as slow-blow fuses, and only blow after a sustained peak of current above their rating (not sure how long this would be though).
An "F" denotes a fast blow fuse, which blows very quickly after a current spike above it's current rating.

The PPC112 certainly has no padding inside. It's just a traditional, well made, plywood box basically